It’s hard not to get worked up about Walter Massa’s wines. He had a vision for a variety nobody wanted (Timorasso), worked in obscurity for years, rescued the grape, and doesn’t talk about himself but instead about the territory of Colli Tortonesi. When you get lost going there, start asking people 100 kilometers out; they all know and love him, from the gas station guy to the producer next door. You'll often hear it bandied about: "There are thousands of native grape varieties in Italy!" That's true, but a lot of them are merely cute. Timorasso, however, deserves another category (and it’s white to boot). It’s utterly unique, complex, capable of aging, and transparent to where it's grown. Walter is the 'contadino straordinario' who started to replant the variety in the 1980s and remains the leading producer and go-to grower for Timorasso today. We often say that Timorasso is like Ali: 'Float like a butterfly (baroque fruit and honeyed minerality) and sting like a bee (lots of well-integrated acidity). Remarkable and distinctive red wines made from Barbera, Croatina, and Freisa demonstrate that Walter is more than just the "King of Timorasso".