Lamole is a ragged valley of terraced vineyards, woods, and a sleepy hamlet of 35 inhabitants. It’s often called 'il tetto del Chianti', the rooftop of Chianti, for its altitude and position. The vineyards of Podere Castellinuzza are located at 550m, just below the hamlet of Lamole proper. Owner Paolo Coccia was a 'mezzadro', a sharecropper, before his father, Gino, bought the property in 1961. Here, the centenarian bush-vines — a few reaching almost 150 years old — are grown on native rootstocks. Vines this old are rarely seen in Italy, let alone Chianti. The principal reason the vines have survived phylloxera and continue to thrive today is due to the local soil called 'Macigno del Chianti', which is compressed sandstone with traces of silicon. Paolo’s daughter Serena follows the wines in the cantina when she’s not helping her father in the vineyard. A natural and slow native yeast fermentation takes place in large glass-lined cement containers. There is minimal intervention at all stages and no rush; the wine is released when it’s ready. These are unadulterated, adult wines with structure built from acidity more than tannins. If you’ve become a disenchanted Chianti naysayer over the years, Sangiovese grown in Lamole’s high-altitude terroir may intrigue you enough to fall in love all over again. Taut fruit, complex minerality, and that classic leaping profumato Lamole nose of orange zest and graphite — it’s a racy Chianti.