Located in Cambados right on the Atlantic Ocean, Alberto Nanclares has been quietly crafting some of the most serious, ocean-infused, age-worthy Albariños in the Val do Salnés subzone of Rías Baixas. After a career as an economist for many years, in 1992, Alberto and his wife wanted to unwind their careers near the ocean. As happenstance, the small home they purchased came with some vineyard land. Initially, Alberto had no plans to make wine, but the idea of farming grew on him, so he invested in some winemaking tools and set up a tiny winery in his garage. In the beginning, Alberto farmed conventionally but quickly became disenchanted with the use of chemicals. Gradually, he moved away from the systematic herbicide and pesticide use and has now eliminated chemicals altogether with full-fledged organic farming and some work with biodynamics, a rarity in this humid, Atlantic-influenced region. Alberto currently tends 2.5ha of vines, all trained in the traditional pergola style, and divided into 12 small parcels in the parroquias of Cambados and Meaño. Some of the vines are so close to the ocean that Alberto gathers seaweed to use for compost, and he does not plow in order to keep the surrounding flora and fauna in their natural habitat. After harvesting by hand, all of his wines are fermented with wild yeasts by parcel, and he chooses not to de-acidify, preferring the edginess of the naturally high acidity. Malolactic fermentation rarely occurs, and the wines spend a good amount of time (usually more than one year) on their lees before being bottled without clarification or filtration and only a minimal dose of sulfur. Nanclares wines are angular and 'vin de garde' in style with great concentration, crystalline precision, and a distinct saline character that pairs effortlessly with the abundant fresh seafood the region is known for.