CÀ del Vént
Cà del Vént, home of the wind, is the name of the winery and an apt description of it. Just North of Brescia, in the hills of Campiani di Cellatica, a sunny southern exposition warms 6ha of vineyards, which are then cooled by the wind that’s always blowing here. An altitude of 300-400m and mainly chalky soils chisel the fruit. In the last few years, as the wines have become more refined and acid-driven, the Franciacorta consortium has started rejecting them. Well, for Franciacorta lovers, maybe that would be a problem. For us, it’s encouraging. Antonio Tornincasa and Flavio Faliva are obsessive naturalistas – in an area that’s known not to be too friendly to organic wines. The wines have an edgy acidity and a precision that reflects their exhaustive work in analyzing soil structure and composition in their 13 parcels, each of which is vinified separately. Pas Operé refers to the use of the same wine (instead of sugar) for secondary fermentation, and there are no other additives whatsoever. These are not cheap, but I truly don’t know of any sparkling wines that are more stunning and pure than these in all of Italy.